Turn by turn guide to the BeaveRun Motorsports Complex trackFrom TrackpediaIf you know this track then please try to start this guide. Once, someone starts then other readers should refine it to make the descriptions better. But, someone has to be first. Just click the edit button on the top of the page or the right and go.
Track Map
Turn 1visit http://www.beaverun.com/misc_N_trk_narrative_dana.htm for a full narrative walk-thru of the track. There's also some video on the web site: http://www.beaverun.com/facility_north_road_course.htm Also, the design for the South track has changed: http://www.beaverun.com/facility_south_track_design.htm
The turn itself is wider than you think, but you have to keep a tight line and not use all the track, or you'll be set up poorly for turn 2. basically, be sure to FINISH turn 1, so you're wide enough for 2. Turn 2right-hand turn. zero braking from turn one. run it wide, and make turns 2 and 3 into one big arc. Turn 3another right-hand turn. If you've carried good speed through 1 and 2, this should be a continuation of turn two. Turn 4first time you should be hitting the brakes since turn 1. the 'south track' pavement on the left side is your turn-in point. i actually run ONTO that pavement before turning in. there's also a short straight ("the chute") between turns 4 and 5. Great place to pass if someone enters turn 4 too slowly ahead of you. Turn 5as mentioned in turn 4, there's a short straight leading up to the right-hand T5. I find this to be a great place to pass on the brakes. For trackdays, i prefer to get the pass done on the inside. For racing, it's safer to use the outside line, since turn 6 is a left. This allows you to block anyone from re-passing you. T5 points you up-hill, so don't be afraid to carry some speed into it. Gravity is already going to slow you down and compress the suspension and tires into the track surface. There's some obvious concrete patches here from cars pulling the pavement. They are still VERY grippy. bike's shouldn't worry about them being unsafe, even in wet conditions, but the proper race line is between the patching and the curbing. Turn 6transitional left at the top of the hill. The most important thing with T6 is to be accelerating. There's a short straight before T7 that you can't see as you come up the hill. In a car, you probably want to keep T6 pretty tight. on a bike, you want to end up finishing the turn about mid-track. There's no reason to bring it back any further left than that for T7. Turn 7Blind entry right hander as you crest the hill. Cars have made some ripples beginning about 7 ft off the apex curbing. this is a very fast turn, with gravity helping you accelerate. STAY TIGHT IF YOU CAN. as you drift out, the track gets bumpy, and dirty. in a car, you might go for a spin. on a bike, you can end up on your head. NOT a place for outside passes, IMO. Turn 8barely a turn. more of a left-hand kink onto the back straight. WOT. hit your apex, and run as wide as you need to. Turn 9another kink. driver/rider confidence dictates whether or not you catch people in this turn, or they catch you. If you've gotten good drive out of 7, you should be WOT in top gear for the second kink. Some people prefer to drop 1 gear, in preparation for turn 10, but they're just dropping a gear - not braking hard. AFTER the kink, brake markers appear quickly for T10.
|
